Saturday, January 24, 2009

The exact origin of the art of origami is unknown.

Paper was invented in China in the first century A.D. and brought to Japan by Buddhist monks in the sixth century A.D.

However, the written records for the period are limited, so it is unknown whether origami first started in China or Japan.

However, no one will dispute that Japan developed origami to a very high art form.

Most origami instructions were passed on by oral tradition.

The oldest known written document about Japanese origami, the Senbazuru Orikata ("How to Fold One Thousand Cranes"), surfaced in 1797.

The first works of original modern origami (in the 1950's) are due to the master Yoshizawa Akira.

It is also known that the Arab world was making paper in the eight century, and the Moors brought paper folding to Spain in the twelfth century.

Paper folding or papiroflexia subsequently became very popular in Spain and South America.

The kindergarten movement in Germany (introduced around 1835 by Friedrich Froebel) included paper folding.

Paper folding was a popular children's hobby in the England of Queen Victoria, as evidenced by a couple of John Tunnel’s illustrations for Through the Looking Glass by Lewis Carroll, featuring two simple origami hats.

While origami is often considered a children's pastime in the West, its long history in Japan has enmeshed it in the cultural identity.


1) Origami: A Brief History of the Ancient Art of Paperfolding, by Joseph Wu.

2) Origami Origins (from the General Libraries at the University of Texas at Austin)

3) Two Miscellaneous Collections of Jottings on the History of Origami, by David Lister


  1. Paper
  2. Paper Cutters
  3. Glue
  4. Scissors
  5. Ruller


Although almost any laminar material can be used for folding, the choice of material used greatly affects the folding and final look of the model.

Normal copy paper with weights of 70–90 g/m² (19-24lb) can be used for simple folds, such as the crane and waterbomb. Heavier weight papers of 100 g/m² (approx. 25lb) or more can be wet-folded. This technique allows for a more rounded sculpting of the model, which becomes rigid and sturdy when it is dry.

Special origami paper, often also referred to as "kami" (Japanese for paper, among other things), is sold in prepackaged squares of various sizes ranging from 2.5 cm to 25 cm or more. It is commonly colored on one side and white on the other; however, dual coloured and patterned versions exist and can be used effectively for color-changed models. Origami paper weighs slightly less than copy paper, making it suitable for a wider range of models.

Foil-backed paper, just as its name implies, is a sheet of thin foil glued to a sheet of thin paper. Related to this is tissue foil, which is made by gluing a thin piece of tissue paper to kitchen aluminum foil. A second piece of tissue can be glued onto the reverse side to produce a tissue/foil/tissue sandwich. Foil-backed paper is available commercially, but not tissue foil; it must be handmade. Both types of foil materials are suitable for complex models.

Washi (和紙?) is the predominant origami paper used in Japan. Washi is generally tougher than ordinary paper made from wood pulp, and is used in many traditional arts. Washi is commonly made using fibers from the bark of the gampi tree, the mitsumata shrub (Edgeworthia papyrifera), or the paper mulberry but also can be made using bamboo, hemp, rice, and wheat.

Artisan papers such as unryu, lokta, hanji, gampi, kozo, saa, and abaca have long fibres and are often extremely strong. As these papers are floppy to start with, they are often backcoated or resized with methylcellulose or wheat paste before folding. Also, these papers are extremely thin and compressible, allowing for thin, narrowed limbs as in the case of insect models.

Paper money from various countries are also popular to create origami with, while some may call it "Moneygami," it is more accurately known as "Orikane." It is common to create the figure depicted on the note itself.

Only paper is necessary to fold origami; however, some enthusiasts prefer to use a folding bone to sharpen creases while folding. Other folders grow certain nails long to aid with creasing instead of a folding bone.

How to Make Origami

If you are a beginner at paper folding and would like to learn how to make origami, then this site is for you! There are some great simple models for you to try, and some harder ones for when you get more confident, as well as all of the favourites: the Crane, Pelican, Lily, Butterfly…

But let's not get ahead of ourselves!

If you're looking for a place to start, then start here: Find some paper! Very simple!

Any paper will do, you can use special origami paper if you like, or ordinary printer paper. Some models work better with origami paper, but most will look just as good with plain paper. And here's a tip: If you have some, use gift wrapping paper.

Gift wrap comes in many thicknesses; so some might not be practical, but if you have some spare gift wrap, give it a try: you can get some beautiful effects from patterned paper, and most types are a little thinner than printer paper, which is a plus when you are learning how to make origami. It makes the folds easier, and the model stays intact better.

So let's get started! First choose a model that you think you would like to make. Below are my recommendations for a starting model… But before you go anywhere, please read some of these tips for better folding: they will make the folding easier, if you know these few things:

1. Fold each crease very well. Every crease needs to be flattened quite well for a successful model (unless of course the instructions tell you not to crease it well!) You can reinforce a crease by running the side of your thumbnail along the fold, or even use some sort of tool. I sometimes use the end of a plastic ruler, that works well without damaging the paper.

2. Follow the instructions. Every part of the instructions is important, so read each description carefully, and look at each picture closely. If you miss a piece of information, it could make the model more difficlt than it has to be!

3. Be patient. If you are just learning how to make origami, you have to realize that it is contemplative and relaxed activity, that is, you can't go rushing through the instructions as fast as you can! It won't take long for you to be very good at origami especially with the diagrams on this site, but when you are just starting give yourself a lot of time to work it out.

4. Have fun!

Okay, I'd like you to try one of these models first, and if you find them too easy, well, simply go on to a harder one! On the Origami Instructions page, there is a rating system so you can choose a more difficult model if you need to.


Click on the picture to get the instruction





Friday, January 23, 2009








If you want the instruction of making this origami, please click at the picture.